Saulieu, Avallon, and Vezelay

Today we visited the Basilica of St Andoche in Saulieu, the Church of St Lazarus in Avallon, and the Basilica of St Mary Magdalene in Vezelay.  They are all known for their Burgundian Romanesque style and whether the elevation is two story or three story, the architecture is splendid.

Focusing on the Basilica of St Mary Magdalene, we enter a church that is important to several chapters of history in addition to its architectural features.  In recognition of this, the church and the hill on which it stands are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Around 1050, the monks at this basilica claimed to have the relics of Mary Magdalene, a very important saint.  Relics are the physical remains of a saint’s body or possessions, or something that has touched the relic.   A relic is often kept in a beautiful container called a reliquary.  In medieval times, the faithful flocked to churches housing relics, believing that a close proximity would facilitate the saint’s intervention on their behalf, or perhaps result in a miracle.  Pilgrims would bring gifts and the relics of a principal  saint such as Mary Magdalene could provide generous resources to the church.

This church was also important as it was the beginning of one of four major routes through France to a most important medieval pilgrim destination, Santiago de Compostela in northwest Spain. Santiago de Compostela is known for housing the burial site and relics of the Apostle St James.

Historical events taking place at the Basilica of St Mary Magdalene include when Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, chose the location to announce the excommunication of supporters of England’s Henry II in 1166.  In 1190, Richard I of England and Philip II of France met at the basilica before embarking on the 3rd Crusade.   The basilica’s importance to the crusades is reflected in the portal sculpture where the “ungodly” are represented with physical deformities (illustrating the deformity of the spirit) while Christians appear well proportioned. 

The fortunes of Vezalay changed when a church in Provence, France claimed that it had the true relics of Mary Magdalene in 1279 and received official recognition of this claim.  The church in Vezaley suffered from reduced pilgrim revenues and subsequently was damaged by the Huguenots and during the French Revolution.  Fortunately,  much needed repairs were started in 1834 and maintenance continues to this day.